Overview
Last week we have introduced stainless steel applied in timepieces like IWatch and Garmin Fitness Watch and made a comparison between the two brands. Due to the limited space, we have to leave Rolex until this new chapter. This week we will continue with our exploration into the world of stainless steel through the case of Rolex.
Rolex
Rolex is worth a separate article because this brand dominates a wholly different market segment from Apple and Garmin, different client group & different material.
Rolex is a world famous luxury watch brand that boasts a history of over a century since its birth in 1905. As a luxury brand, Rolex is associated with fame, prestige and ultimate success. To certain extent, Rolex is more than just a watch. It can be regarded as an identity or/and an investment which value is expected to get increased over time with great market liquidity.
Overall, Rolex is viewed by the most as the No.1 Swiss watch manufacturer for its superb quality, enduring design, strong brand impression, successful marketing strategy, and lifetime after-sales service.
Material Selection
Rolex outperforms its competitors from the material selection to its marketing. Instead of launching new products to cater for new trends, Rolex only works on detailed improving to make its watches more accurate, sturdy and enduring in time. This creates a kind of predictability and strengthens its brand recognition.
In order to create the best possible watch, Rolex is only satisfied with the best possible material. For example, the company switched from aluminum bezel inserts to ceramic in order to avoid scratching and color changing under UV light. To address pitting corrosion from lifetime wearing, Rolex changed the material from stainless steel 316L to 904L.
Material selection has always been the focus of attention in timepiece industry, especially when a Rolex watch was auctioned successfully at an incredible price USD 15.50 million by the end of October in 2024.
Gold, titanium and ceramic are all common watch case materials, but stainless steel dominates for the durability and price advantage. Most watch brands apply stainless steel 316L which is also known as marine grade or medical grade. However, Rolex has pioneered the use of stainless steel 904L in timepieces.
What is Oystersteel?
904L is also named Oystersteel, known for the invention of the world’s first waterproof watch “the Oyster” by Rolex in 1926. It features higher chromium, nickel and molybdenum content as the below table (comparing the two grades excerpted from ASTM A240), which gives it outstanding corrosion resistance in extremely harsh environment. Plus, 904L includes 1% above Copper, which further enhances its corrosion resistance and wear resistance.
| Chemical Compositions | ||
|---|---|---|
| % | 904L | 316L |
| C | ≦0.020 | ≦0.030 |
| Mn | ≦2.00 | ≦2.00 |
| P | ≦0.045 | ≦0.045 |
| S | ≦0.035 | ≦0.030 |
| Si | ≦1.00 | ≦0.75 |
| Cr | 19.0-23.0 | 16.0-18.0 |
| Ni | 23.0-28.0 | 10.0-14.0 |
| Mo | 4.00-5.00 | 2.00-3.00 |
| N | ≦0.10 | ≦0.10 |
| Cu | 1.00-2.00 | … |
Why 904L for Rolex?
Due to the higher content of Cr, Ni, Mo & Cu, 904L can trigger allergic reactions to certain group of people. 316L on the contrary is safer and widely applied into the watch case, jewelry and scalpels. However, Rolex made the change not without a reason.
Watches are mainly exposed to sweats and moistures for daily wear. For divers and those working under marine environment, 316L can be insufficient to meet the lifelong enduring quality. For this, Rolex switched to 904L even though it meant to change their whole production line and start all over.
Meanwhile, 904L stainless steel, due to the higher alloyed elements and lower carbon, features brighter finish and luster after polishing. It can withstand repetitive polishing for 25 times and keep its original look. These factors constitute Rolex’s choice on 904L. For most watch brands, 316L is sufficient for they are not meant to be worn for a lifelong time or passed to next generations as heritage or asset.
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